Hangboard repeaters protocol youtube. Set the training load accordingly with a pulley setup3.

Hangboard repeaters protocol youtube. com/episodes/ned-feehallyOr you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC This video shows how to do a simple hangboard repeater workout. You can learn how to hangboard with good form more easily with repeaters. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. In this video, I break down the 3 essential types of hangboard exercises every climber needs to know — and explain what each one does, why it matters, and how to choose the right protocol for Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. In this video, Cameron Hörst details the “7/3 Repeater” protocol he used to train-up his finger strength-endurance for his ascent of Lucifer (5. 99K subscribers Subscribed AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest new featuresNFL Sunday Ticket© 2025 Google LLC Friday hangboard repeaters. Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. Feb 2, 2018 · Hangboarding is one of the best ways to build climbing hand strength and muscular endurance. Hangboard training is the fastest way to build real finger strength if you actually know what you’re training. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2024 Google LLC Repeaters are ok, but I tend to have friction issues with only 3 seconds to chalk up. All you need is a hangboard and perhaps a few weights, and you're good to go. The idea behind repeaters is to mimic the load and recovery cycle of redpoint climbing. #climbingtraining #bouldering #climber #climbing 1 Likes 0 Views 58m Ago Bodyweight Repeaters | Intermediate Hangboard Session | Lattice Training Tutorial #Shorts Lattice Training 182K subscribers Subscribed About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC Sep 17, 2024 · AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest new featuresNFL Sunday Ticket© 2024 Google LLC Oct 3, 2024 · 7-3-6 hangboard repeaters. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. Set the training load accordingly with a pulley setup3. 99K subscribers 231 Apr 9, 2023 · Endurance Training Endurance Repeaters – Forearm Aerobic Endurance Hangboard Routine Endurance Repeaters are a less known modification of the standard 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters protocol. In this video, Alyson uses stairs instead of a I set how to see if this would work for a beginner who's never used a hangboard before. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. JOIN the Lattice Training community and follow us on Instagram: https://www. All other things being equal, stronger fingers equals better climbing. trainingbeta. In this video, cameron hörst details the. Ein blinder Fleck, den wir bei unseren Assesments aufdecken ist recht oft die Maximalkraftausdauer im Bereich Haltekraft und Oberkörper. Maybe I can’t hangboard 6 days a week, but I can hangboard 3-4 days a week consistently, and increase the load. Train Endurance part of Wednesday's hangboard repeater session. Focusing primarily on beginner hangboard workout strategies, you'll find tailored advice for Metolius hangboard workout techniques and Beastmaker hangboard workout insights. First video of the protocole Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days (youtube. Nov 10, 2022 · In addition, there is a whole host of “methods” to use for hangboard sessions such as repeaters, max hangs or long duration hangs—all of which have their time and place. At that point, I decided to switch to the Eva Lopez's MaxHangs protocol for 4 weeks, followed by the Chris Webb Parsons' protocol for the next 4 weeks. Owing to neural adaptations I started increasing the loads very quickly. Now that you’re ready to get into some hangboard training, let’s look at the three main types of hangboard training methodologies: max hangs, repeaters, and long duration hangs. The repeater protocol is probably the most widely used form of hangboard training and was popularized by the Anderson Brothers and their book The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. Here we review the hangboard exercise know Coach Matt shows us a modular and easy to follow hangboard workout. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! May 6, 2020 · Part of the Puccio Performance and ROCUP playlist. Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. I'm currently doing this twice a week. You are targeting three distinct qualities: maximal finger force, stamina, and endurance. com) 2 Years later : Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years (youtube. The “simplest” Finger training program. But some well-conditioned climbers want a bit of variety in their hangboard training, and for that reason, we have max hangs. Emil’s video: • Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day Fo Bodyweight Repeaters | Intermediate Hangboard Session | Lattice Training Tutorial #Shorts @LatticeTraining Jan 18, 2024 · Search "finger training" @thenuggetclimbing Ned Feehally on Hangboard Protocols 338 Dislike This is my second installment of a max-hang protocol for rock climbing handboard training. What Are Max Hangs? Friday hangboard repeaters and max hangs #bouldering #rockclimbing #rockclimber #hangboard #climber Friday hangboard repeaters and max hangs #bouldering #rockclimbing #rockclimber #hangboard #climber Ed Ashby climbing 64 subscribers Subscribe Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. Moreover, countless fingerboarding protocols, like the MaxHangs or the 7/3 Repeaters, have been developed to build finger strength and forearm endurance 2 3. We caught up with GB Climbing Coach and pro climber Rachel Carr, and she walked us through 3 protocols for training on the hangboard. https://www. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: 😍 Instagram Brian shows repeaters, varied grip protocol, & repeaters + pullups. Max hangs If you only did repeaters, you would see significant gains in your grip strength. This Video covers a Classic Hangboard Training Drill to Gain Finger Strength for Climbing: Repeaters! Workflow and additional tips for proper execution and a Apr 7, 2024 · The traditional method of building finger strength is deadhanging, and that's not without reason. hangboard repeaters and max hangs #hangboard #climber #bouldering #climbing #rockclimber Ed Ashby climbing 63 subscribers Subscribe My understanding has been that the load of a repeater protocol should not be at the max. Mar 2, 2023 · Make your every hangboard endurance training session count with the secret Endurance Repeaters Pyramids method! The hangboard protocol I decided to follow is the 7:3s 40% deadhang repeaters on the Crimpd app (10 sets of 6 7:3s repeaters at 40 percent of max load, one minute rest between sets). Training power endurance on a hangboard is possible, and here's how. can you guess what movie the audio is from? #rockclimbing #climber Ed Ashby climbing 44 subscribers Subscribe @eashby22 part of Wednesday's hangboard repeater session. davemacleod. com IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨‍⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. How to train rock climbing endurance on a hangboard? 1. Listen to the full episode 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing. com) Edit : for context, I'm a v10 climber and I trained numerous times on the fingerboards up to +45 lbs on 6mm edges. Cameron Hörst details the "7/3 Repeater" protocol he used to train-up his finger strength-endurance for his ascent of Lucifer (5. When starting your power endurance training phase, it can be a good idea to first do a couple weeks of lower weight repeaters to build up to harder repeater sessions. If you think about a redpoint crux section, it might take a minute or so to move through a 15-foot section of a cliff. I do it once in half crimp position, take a long rest, and repeat in 3 finger drag. #climbingtraining #bouldering #climbing #rockclimber #metolius High and Dry · Radiohead About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket How to train rock climbing endurance on a hangboard? 1. Apr 8, 2019 · Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol The knowledge as to who exactly invented the Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol is lost in the darkness of history, but it’s probably the first structured hangboard protocol ever developed 1. In this episode, Kris and Paul bring Feb 11, 2022 · Wanting to start training but unsure how to approach a hangboard? Neil Gresham - elite rock climber and one of Britain's most experienced climbing coaches - shares his best tips for getting Over the past 2 years, the Lattice coaches have replaced fingerboard workouts with lifting edge workouts in over 30% of training plans 🤯In this video we Oct 3, 2022 · Follow along standard hangobard workout 30 minutes. TrainingBeta. He speculates that a 10″ max hang is more targeted at recruitment whereas low total set repeaters are more beneficial for strength building. Sep 8, 2024 · Can low intensity, twice-a-day hangboarding work, and is that even the right question?My new book https://www. It’s designed to mimic the grip and relax sequence that is characteristic of climbing. This time I'm using two arms. The Hangboard Workout guide prioritizes form, efficiency, and injury prevention. We sat Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol StrengthClimbing Repeaters Climbing Training As the name suggests, this form of training is all about repeated efforts of hanging, linked together with very little rest. To get the most benefit from a Repeaters training cycle, it's essential to May 15, 2019 · Finger training on a hangboard is one of the most basic and effective ways to improve climbing performance. Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. There are many ways to use hangboards for climbing fitness. You are not just hanging around hoping for gains. g. These boards typically have finger pockets or edges that allow you to perform the exercises effectively. Density Hangs A question arises, is there a practical difference between typical 7/3 Repeaters or IntHangs and Density Hangs? All three protocols are done at similar intensities, around 60 - 85% of the maximum, and result in a similar TUT. In order to do The recruitment pulls hangboard protocol Juliet Hammer 633 subscribers Subscribed References:1. I've tried many different types of trainings over the years. Consider adding one or two brief 7/3 Repeater training sessions to your current climbing and training schedule! Pro Tip Jan 11, 2024 · This is a good protocol for targeting harder yet shorter power endurance crux sections. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your physiology and is a sure-fire way to keep improving, rather than plateauing after your 10th week of max hangs. Dec 6, 2022 · Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. we detail two training protocols as well as how to find your baseline strength level for this classic hangboard exercise Here's what you About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC Apr 16, 2023 · ADVANCED FINGER STRENGTH TRAINING for CLIMBERS | One Arm Hangboard Repeaters | Lattice Training Lattice Training 180K subscribers Subscribed Apr 24, 2020 · This paragraph was a pretty big wake-up call about training and what was possible. In part one of this article, we’re going to guide you through the basics. 14c/8c+). About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2025 Google LLC Nov 17, 2022 · This is called the 7:3 protocol and it's a technique used on the hangboard where you hang for 7 seconds, rest for 3 seconds and repeat some number of times. Max hangs have been great for getting really strong and powerful, but they take forever when you're resting and I would like to hit my endurance a bit more. (I use +10 kg on a 10 seconds max hang with 3 minutes rest, which is about 90% of max, but I use -10 kg on a 6 rep 5 sets repeater protocol with the minute rest, which is about 60-70% of max) Questions: Nov 21, 2022 · The following repeater protocol, popularized by the Anderson brothers in their Rock Climber’s Training Manual, does employ added weight and limits each set to about 1 minute. Jan 26, 2024 · To execute Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine, you will need a fingerboard or hangboard specifically designed for the routine. The Hangboarding Training Protocol My training protocol was simple. A really effective way of training your anaerobic system whilst at home or just on a hangboard at your gym. Aug 24, 2023 · Master the ultimate hangboard workout with our detailed guide. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. I was using the Moon Hangboard for MaxHangs, and the Zlagboard for the CWP. one-arm max hangs are pr About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2024 Google LLC Mar 29, 2022 · Here is a 10 minute Hang Board workout using the Jugs Large Medium and Small Edges. Determining your strength baseline Apr 28, 2020 · Repeaters are a great hangboard protocol that target strength endurance. Learn more about hangboard training and workout May 9, 2019 · Finger training on a hangboard is one of the most basic — and effective — ways to improve climbing performance. Measure your Critical Force2. If you’re newer to climbing, it’s probably best to perform on-wall strength and power endurance training rather than hangboard repeaters. What makes you think you're training wrong? I thought the general protocol for 7s on 3s off is about 6 reps. Finger training on a hangboard is one of the most basic — and effective — ways to improve climbing performance. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2024 Google LLC 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta. In this article we will highlight the general ways to perform two of the more popular protocols: repeaters and max hangs. Nov 21, 2022 · If you’re unsure of exactly how you can adjust and manipulate factors like these to your advantage, check out Part 1. com/latticetraining/TIME TO TRAIN? Check out the Lattice Shop for world Comments Description 7-3-6 hangboard repeaters with max hang on sloper. com/shop/movingtheneedle00:00 - Why Feb 28, 2022 · Repeaters vs. Train Endurance Part of the Puccio Performance and ROCUP series on how to train for climbing. This is a good workout for intermediate climbers, but can be adjusted to your level. The goal with this protocol is to perform a set of 10-second hangs, each of which takes you close to failure. The idea behind this method is to perform intermittent hangs until failure, with the load reduced to only 30 – 40% of your maximum voluntary contraction (MVC). This video looks at 40% repeaters - training your aerobic system. This is great for all ability levels! Mar 16, 2019 · STRUCTURING YOUR HANGBOARD TRAINING PROGRAM Cycling between these three protocols (e. com/the-simplest-finger-training-p Hangboard Repeater Climbing Training for Finger Strength-Endurance Cameron Hörst 1. The 7/3 Repeaters are a fantastic hangboard training protocol for climbers of all ability levels, from beginner to elite. May 23, 2024 · Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. Supercharged collagen. Therefore, this fingerboard protocol is a sort of bridge between maximum strength training (previous exercises) and endurance training (to be covered in an upcoming Jul 15, 2016 · The multitude of finger training approaches includes fingerboard pyramids, max hangs, repeaters, encores and many more. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. Die klassische Train Sep 18, 2020 · Finger strength is one thing, but endurance training—especiaslly for climbers—is just as important. (2019, August 15). Hey everyone, here is my hangboard protocol for developing high end finger strength for hard bouldering and sport climbing! If you have any questions about the workout drop a comment below. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min breaks, adding weight (if needed) to get failure within that time frame. #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #hangboard Evenflow · Pearl Jam Sep 27, 2024 · AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest new featuresNFL Sunday Ticket© 2024 Google LLC Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at recruitment whereas low total set repeaters are more beneficial for strength building. 14c). Most people blur those lines and wonder why their fingers still feel like cooked noodles halfway up a crux. This way, you’re working on developing technique while also building fitness. Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta. #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #hangboard Ed Ashby climbing 56 subscribers Subscribed About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2024 Google LLC Repeaters Hangboard Workout. Hangboarding is a great training tool for improving overall Feb 22, 2020 · In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. Two-arm vs. Two handed hangs suitable for any climber with explanations of how to adjust load depending on strength l Nov 27, 2020 · Advanced Finger Strength Training for Climbers - One-Arm Hangboard Training Protocol Cameron Hörst 1. Nelson, T. May 8, 2019 · Cameron Hörst demonstrates the "7/3 Repeater" protocol for developing greater finger strength-endurance for hard rock climbing and bouldering. THE hangboard routine you should know! 👉In our latest YouTube video we have coach @ollietorr here to show us a really simple hangboarding session that every rock climber should know. 3-5 days per week, no more than 2 days in a row (better to have a rest day). In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. You can use this workout with any hangboard with these edges which most ha. Dec 18, 2023 · Lower-resistance protocol In the context of building strength-endurance, a classic repeater protocol is seven seconds on followed by three seconds off. Repeaters are better for hypertrophy, which a newer climber may benefit from--if you then transition to max hangs then you'll have more muscle to learn to recruit. instagram. wgdxgk vjmcf nxuqo kmtsqzsj gtns kgzbi nhadyc mqztb ehnmao kowr