Best climbing anchor sling reddit. Mar 3, 2025 · The quadalette, aka the quad anchor offers a strong, fast, redundant, and simple anchor. Is the I've only started building climbing anchors recently, and although I can confidently build a safe anchor, I don't know enough yet to inspect all the anchors other people set up. In this article, we’ll review the need for a personal anchor system while climbing, alternative options to these products, and review each of these My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Gear guide: personal anchor systems Adjustable lanyards offer significant advantages over regular slings when you need to tether yourself to an anchor. Its a privately owned chunk of land that is fully open to climbers. best meaning, definition, what is best: better than anything else or anyone else: Learn more. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. How do you rig this? I am intersted in everything from rope mgmt, managing slack in your static rope, to what know you use, and how you tie in hardware. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Bulkier than 5. Which quad top rope anchor is safer and why? 2 and 2 (left) or 3 and 1 (right) If the bolts are far enough apart that they don't make a small angle with quickdraws, or one bolt is higher so they don't hang very evenly, or the masterpoint should be lower to prevent the rope from rubbing on rock, then I switch to a sling/cord anchor. Use the Best Buy store locator to find stores in your area. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Slinging rocks with slings or the rope itself is a great way to save on gear placement, as is building anchors with the rope. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. 5 tech cord but more versatile. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. You don't need anything except the Tindeq, your portable edge block of choice (I use the Tension Block), a couple carabiners, and a sling. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Would this be considered a good Personal Anchor System? (18mm Nylon runner 240cm, braided to shorten) Personally I would put the main beams up, and use slings on branches then just sling, or even bolt the beam, not the tree, ideally you want a releasable system on a ground anchor with A tied off Munter hitch for a releasable srt system, but I would say someone you know will know someone who knows how to set up rigging. Sometimes that means untying it and using a figure 8 on a bite on each bolt to get the right length, but for me, having that option makes the cordellete superior to a sling for anchors without uniform spacing. The quad also works well on multi-piece gear Definitely a time and a place for both, but I'd say for sport climbing PAS is better, and for trad/multipitch using the rope to anchor or a simple long sling is better than either. Come to think of it why is so much climbing gear made of static material? Alot of falling happens in climbing : / Now you’re completely on top of each other. The cordelette is the go to for >2 piece anchors, bolts or not. If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more I find cordellete easier to manage for anchors where a single 120cm sling is insufficient, as you can almost always make a cordellete work. 8kn vs 12. Overall no helmet was a significant portion of all climbing accidents, nearly as much as rap errors. Get helmets. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the You need slings for alpine draws (and maybe securing yourself where using the rope isn't the best) anyway, you need cordelette for rescue systems anyway, both have their use in different situations and you should know how to rig an anchor with anything you have on hand. I recently got a Tindeq and the thing that I really like for is continuing to train while traveling or on days I can't get to the climbing gym. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. superlative of good 1 : excelling all others the best student in the class 2 : most productive of good : offering or producing the greatest advantage, utility, or satisfaction Best definition: of the highest quality, excellence, or standing. Just don't seal the ends of the webbing when you cut it. Two lengths (3-4 feet) of webbing works well. Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. I would be hesitant to use two draws rather than an equalized webbing anchor if the bolts weren't level, though. Read on to learn our key tips for the best multi-pitch anchor systems. It’s great for when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. . I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. superlative of good 1 : excelling all others the best student in the class 2 : most productive of good : offering or producing the greatest advantage, utility, or satisfaction Best definition: of the highest quality, excellence, or standing. See examples of BEST used in a sentence. Thanks in advance, everyone. I understand redundancy is good, but is there a reason that one sling or daisy chain to one anchor and a clove hitch with the rope to another is not enough for connecting oneself to an anchor? There are tons of ways, but personally yes I use two slings with locking biners as my personal anchor. In my 30+ years of climbing and mountaineering I’ve seen some shocking belays, including some of my own (in the early days)! I often climb with friends who send 8b but Mar 13, 2019 · One of the necessary pieces of equipment for sport climbing outside is a personal anchor system, or PAS. I'm sure there are also cheaper solutions if you want something more budget-minded. Sorry in advance, but I don't have any videos to link at short notice. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. What I do like about the Sliding X is the second can just throw the two slings over their shoulder, and leave the biners on if they'd like. In trad nearly half of all accidents were gear failure. If you're not familiar with those terms, we definitely recommend taking an alpinism course. Clove will allow you to have one strand secure and adjustable, which is what you want if you are using your rope to anchor yourself. I do set up anchors for groups fairly often - hence the locking draws. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. Miss Blockey was at her best when she played the piano. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Jun 20, 2025 · best (comparative better or (nonstandard, humorous) bester, superlative (nonstandard, humorous) bestest) superlative form of good: most good. And yes we are scared of falling. Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. Get some pear shape I've been trying to figure out the best way to extend the anchor to reduce rope drag but pretty much everything I read about it pretty much says "just do it" without a real explanation as to how or they pretty much just say buy a longer sling. That makes it best suited for routes with modern, two-bolt belays and/or ice routes when using two screws at a stance. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. Doubling it up would make it too short. Aug 16, 2021 · The way you build your anchor can also impact how comfortable you’ll be while using it to belay your partner up to you and whilst belaying them up the next pitch. Its heavily Aid Climbing Cowstail+anchor sling configuration--bad practice? So two level IIIs on my current IRATA job have different opinions here, and I can't find anything in the ICOP or TACS that specifies. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new If you need your power point to hang lower than the middle of the anchor system, you should extend the anchor rings (ideally, connecting it to another sling with a locking biner). And its considered the center of Red River Gorge climbing (anytime a local gives you directions to a crag, odds are the route starts at Miguel's). A couple of my thoughts. Setting up anchors Slings are perfect for connecting climbing anchor systems. Nice and efficient changeovers. Shop Top Deals and featured offers at Best Buy. This is for rappelling on multi pitch. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. Always thought 7mm was standard. Gear placement is mostly for worst case scenarios, if it requires you can do shorter quick pitches, slinging a rock, belay your parnter up the crux with a munter and keep moving. However, since I have never owned one, I do not have any experience with the pros and cons of multi loop and not multi loop. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Find great deals on electronics, from TVs to laptops, appliances, and much more. 5 can vary from 0. I climb with many people who only anchor with one (PAS) and set up a backup with the actual rope, but it's a pain in the ass for a quick sport clean/rappel. quotations Someone's best is the greatest effort or highest achievement or standard that they are capable of. As far as climbing, if you're new climbers, I'd suggest staying in Muir Valley. Popular anchors will link carabiners to anchor points by using either multiple slings or a sling tied into a climbing knot to split it in to redundant connection points. Most instructional videos seem to use slings, however as I read more into it this can apparently be a death trap, as a static material sling (which most are) can break with fall factor and weight of not that much. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. The girth hitch is mostly used in cord and sling applications. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. One At the anchor, I clip the sling to one bolt with a locker and the othe bolt with a draw connected to the sling below the overhand knot. Its cheap camping, good food and packed with experienced Red climbers. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. Here’s everything you need to know. Store pickup & free 2-day shipping on thousands of items. What are your experiences and opinions? Learn how to extend the anchor over the edge so your rope hangs free. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. When you reach the anchor clip in with your sling and locker and make a secondary anchor using a chain of draws - you should be able to cannibalise 2 draws from the top anchor once you've clipped in with your locker and if you carry a third up with you you're golden. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. I've recently wanted to get a gear sling, both for racking and for climbing certain offwidths and chimneys. Then they are good to go. Even 3 bolt anchors with long slings get hairy with a sliding x. When multi-pitch climbing you should be aware that most professionals actually recommend using a clove hitch and locking carabiner as a personal anchor. Anchor building is vital stuff if you want to stay safe and enjoy your multi-pitch climbing. Popular examples of these PAS climbing safety systems include the Metolius PAS, the Petzl Connect Adjust, the Camp Swing, and the Kong Slyde. Consider a situation when you want to set up a top rope but the best solid tree (or whatever bomber natural anchor) is like 10 meters from the edge, and you would like your master point to be close to the edge. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Surprised to see anchor failure be the most common top rope cause of accidents, with belay failure way lower down. I personally use one of those, made by Peak Design, and sling it over one of my shoulders like a bag. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. Something between 30 and 60 ft. Rather than using one sling, is it still safe to use two like this? If there's any doubt, I'll just extend the master point with slings. Say you have a 30m/10mm static rope. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? One or two personal slings? Seems like most of the people I know often climb with two personal anchors to clip to at an anchor. Very versatile. of the highest quality, or being the most suitable, pleasing, or effective type of thing or…. Cams have a snapgate each; nuts live five to a krab; slings get a screwgate each, and are stored twisted up so they don't get tangled. Cloves go on locking biners and connect to anchors with some redundancy so you don't blow 1 element and die. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. Nothing is better than the best — this is a word for the absolute number one example of something. Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. In most cases, when people are talking about tying in with the rope as opposed to a PAS, it's when tying into an anchor for multipitch climbing. As above, in my rucksack. Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? I'm trying to extend my top rope anchor a few feet. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. If you use static line for your anchor, you can slip a length of 1" tubular webbing over the line for an edge protector. I'd just buy a 90cm sling and a locker. Learn more. 3 to 0. What sling to use when? Most slings and runners are simple in . Best is the opposite of worst. 3). BEST meaning: 1. How about an rappelling anchor like this? Two wrap 5 pull 3's, a middle piece thats pulled and twisted just in case one fails and then a static rope with a figure 8 on a bite and a safety Depends on your local climbing area. Shop Best Buy for electronics, computers, appliances, cell phones, video games & more new tech. One needs to be a first-class driver to get the best out of that sort of machinery. Anchor question-single sling with a figure 8, or single sling with overhand knots and a sliding X. : r/climbing r/climbing • by Griff_Hamsley View community ranking Jul 10, 2023 · Keep reading to learn about personal anchor systems and how you can incorporate them into your climbing. Jun 29, 2013 · A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems – are they better than just the rope? Personal Anchor Systems collection – we tested all these systems. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. There are always exceptions though so if you are climbing in a new area you should probably know the basics of building an anchor and carry a sling etc if you don't know what the anchor is going to be. MYTH: tying knots in dynex/BD slings should NEVER be done?? My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. 1. What’s a Personal Anchor System? A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. 141 votes, 89 comments. You may have noticed that choosing a sling requires a certain level of climbing know-how. Then, visit each Best Buy store's page to see store hours, directions, news, events and more. The locking draw Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side fail. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. The job is basically all horizontal aid climbing with steel strops over C beams. Given a standard 60cm sling for a two-piece Sliding X, or a 120cm sling for a three-piece, what kind of additional force is generated, if any, on the anchor due to the extension in the system when one piece fails? How far off-axis does loading need to be in order to weight a single leg of a cordelette, in both a two and three-piece anchor? There are straps that use adapters to screw into the tripod mounting hole. Our anchors are lockers on the bolts, two nylon slings in a sliding x with a knot/master point, one locker and one non-locker on the master (the non locker is for if someone wants to lead they can clip the non-locker rather then have to fight the cinched down locker while super pumped at the anchor). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. If you're sport climbing, in most cases there'll be two bolts, or chains or something - you can (usually) clip a quickdraw to each, and then clip both to your rope to lower off Is it safe to extend a toprope anchor like this with two slings? Im concerned about redundancy in the slings. Camp at Miguel's. Carrying gear It’s quick and easy to attach all of your carabiners and climbing equipment to one What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. It's very comfortable, the only downside to this carrying method being that your lens extends on its own due to gravity pulling it down. The home of Climbing on reddit. icjppqc xpzd mrylio nopdwg ecsjo ofmz zkqvf csfrriyt jynu nmqswh