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Simul climbing with micro traxion accident. 13a; 3,000 ft) in a day without any support or rehearsal.


  • Simul climbing with micro traxion accident. Nov 29, 2016 · Make no mistake, simul-climbing does not have certain safety measures that are inherent in a pitched climbing system (details are discussed in Section 3: "Pitfalls of the modern simul-climbing systems"). e. Using one won’t remove the danger, but if used sensibly it makes it a little safer. I want to know the best and safest ways to go about this. Apr 9, 2018 · Simul-climbing is an advanced skill that can save time and increase a team's speed if done well, but which also creates obvious and not-so-obvious risks if done poorly. For me if it gets to the stage of needing to add a traxion or similar in for the second its gone beyond what I'm comfortable simul climbing. I know that a toothed device will damage the rope in the event of a fall. The Mini Traxion's invention created a self-belay revolution. Never heard of using a mini/micro traxion to protect the leader. [1] Simul-climbing is not free solo climbing The MICRO TRAXION is an ultra-light, ultra-compact progress-capture pulley that is exceptionally efficient thanks to its sealed ball bearings. 13a; 3,000 ft) in a day without any support or rehearsal. However, this is a toothed device and so is more likely to damage a rope’s sheath. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often between 15 and 30m. Dec 30, 2015 · I'm specifically interested in using a Micro Trax, Kong Duck, or Ropeman to protect a 2nd falling while simul climbing. But! I know (I've seen IFMGA guides do it) it's been a somewhat unspoken practice of bringing up a second to a stance on a microtrax as well. It is common at climbing areas around the world to use a single Micro Traxion for toprope soloing. What are two different non-toothed devices (that do not require managing slack) that can be used to top rope solo. Originally conceived as a much smaller and lighter duty version of the popular big wall hauler, the Pro Traxion, the Micro is a staple in just about any haul kit. Using it as a top rope belay, I could easily see a situation where the rope gets caught to the side of the follower (say in a flake), resulting in a pendulum-ing fall resulting in a failure mode like described in the Petzl guide. How many of you have done it and do it? Mar 4, 2016 · In theory, it works well to protect the leader from a fall by the 2nd. [4] A fall by either climber is serious, and a 2019 article in Outside said "That's why there's a simple rule of simul-climbing: don't fall. Here are a few different ways to set it up. After an awkward/slippery/thin move on lead I place a piece ASAP, attach the micro traxion to the rope and clip it to the pro. Nov 15, 2006 · I self-top-rope quite a lot on a micro traxion, which is essentially no different, but I do feel much happier with a second device backing it up, preferably on a separate rope (more gear to lug around and faff to set up, but preferable while on the rock to pissing about with backup knots as a redundancy measure). Mar 6, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I'm just wondering to what extent, and how this can be minimized. In simul-climbing it is much, much worse if the second climber falls than if the first climber falls. But how is this working in practice and how is the orientation Toothed devices are intended to be progress captures up a climbing rope or in a complex pulley system. They hope to set a precedent for future ascents. ” It allows Off-label use of progress-capture devices like the Petzl Micro Traxion or Tibloc, clipped to solid intermediate protection points, can mitigate the danger caused by a second’s fall, but their use is more appropriate in difficult terrain than for traditional simul-climbing ground. [1] It contrasts with lead climbing where the leader ascends a given pitch on the route while the second climber remains in a fixed position to belay the leader in case they fall. Climbing is dangerous and simul-climbing makes it more so. Oct 21, 2022 · The Petzl Traxion is a handy device for many different climbing situations, including ascending a rope. It offers more protection than ropeless solo climbing, and allows the team to smoothly transition into traditional belayed climbing if they encounter a harder section of rock. One of the climbers wrote a detailed accident report, check it out here. Protection is placed by a pseudo-leader and the second removes the pieces of gear. Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. Dec 26, 2023 · In reply to jafferton91: I've done the 2nd option: 3 climbers equally spaced. Jun 26, 2012 · The Petzl Mini Traxion, this is the best and lightest hauling device for hauling small loads after the Petzl Micro Traxion. WEIGHT: 85gSHEAVE DIAMETER: 27mmROPE DIAMETER: 7-11mmWORKING LOAD: 2 x 2. I completely agre with you and the probability of rope damage, I just think its odd Petzl outlines these setups in their manual. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. * This is an ‘off-label’ use of the device. Just taking a pit stop before climbing is the free way to reduce the weight you carry. The Micro Traxion is an 85g compact progress-capture pulley designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, and self-rescue. This should be manageable given the lack of resistance when pulling rope, especially through the Petzl Nano Traxion and Petzl Micro Traxion. Why do we simul climb? Simul-climbing is a fast and efficient way to keep the team moving on easy and varied terrain. 5 = 5 kNSTRENGTH: 15kNCE EN 567, UIAA Weight bearing climbing and Read More ›. on the right terrain with the right people you can simul pretty safely fairly hard, using traxions to protect the second (and the leader by default) on cruxy sections however falling still isn’t very appealing! Dec 8, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I know that you shouldn't be simul-climbing if a fall is likely by either climber, but what actually happens if the 2nd falls? Assuming the microtrax is clipped directly to a bolt and the 2nd falls with no excess slack. Curiosity follows. We’ll be doing a technique on the way up called “simul-climbing. May 2, 2024 · What are some of the key differences and best uses for the Petzl Nano, Micro, Mini and Pro Traxion progress capture pulleys? Here's an overview of this very handy piece of gear. Simul-climbing has been avoided in general practice due to the extreme consequence of a falling follower pulling off a runout leader and causing a long, harsh fall. May 1, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. That’s the reason I contact you. Jan 20, 2022 · A scenario more realistic to the simul-climbing situation would be the follower falling 1m with 30-60m of rope absorbing the impact, a more mild fall factor of 0. 2 Mark Haward 27 Dec 2023 In reply to jafferton91: This link may be Petzl highly recommends that the TIBLOC is used with round profile carabiners, but they suggest the hole on the S'MD carabiner (NOT round C-section) is for loss prevention of a TIBLOC. Simul-climbing is an advanced and potentially dangerous technique. Examples, directly screwgated to a bolt, an ice screw or maybe a deeply placed cam in a horizontal crack, tight Dec 27, 2023 · My main suggestion with simul climbing would be to try to have a micro-traxion or similar between the leader and the next climber whenever a fall is possible (i. Die Simul-Climbing Technik mit Tibloc oder Micro Traxion verwende ich allerdings oft, wenn es in alpinen Touren schnell gehen soll und ein bisschen weniger Speed als in der Nose gefragt ist. Designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue and can be used as emergency ascender. Great tip. Nov 7, 2022 · The Traxion series of progress capture pulleys, made by Petzl, are an increasingly popular piece of gear. My main suggestion with simul climbing would be to try to have a micro-traxion or similar between the leader and the next climber whenever a fall is possible (i. I understand that slack between the micro trax and the 2nd would increase damage to Sep 27, 2022 · This is a public service announcement to keep Micro Traxion Belays to low loads scenarios. Simul climbing technique and risk? My partner and I have been thinking of simul climbing to increase our efficiency on easy big walls. Dec 22, 2023 · Petzl Micro Traxion – #1 Most Wanted and #1 Most Owned Ascender The range of applications for the Micro Traxion is huge. Off-label use of progress-capture devices like the Petzl Micro Traxion or Tibloc, clipped to solid intermediate protection points, can mitigate the danger caused by a second’s fall, but their use is more appropriate in difficult terrain than for traditional simul-climbing ground. Aug 4, 2020 · There's lots of info on the web about this if you want to read further. Won't be as good for your tree work as a handled ascender like an ascension, but has loads of climbing uses, from top rope solo and self rescue as you mentioned, to hauling and simul climbing. It’s a 22gram saving over the micro traxion, honestly unless you’re literally shaving material off your biners to save weight (which is fucking stupid and no one should ever do it). They only work on very specific placements and must have zero extension or you'll still get yanked off, and this will increase rope drag. Quick and dirty microtraxion drop test - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Which will the protect the leader if the second slips. Which is one time too many. An In-depth comparison between the Petzl MICRO TRAXION and the Climbing Technology ROLLNLOCK. Apr 5, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. May 24, 2024 · It’s indispensable for multiple types of climbing from big walls, to long routes with simul climbing, it’s useful in different rope soloing systems, and any time glacier travel is involved. Hey fellow climbers! I'm in the midst of deciding between two lightweight progress capture devices: the Petzl Nano Traxion and the Edelrid Spoc. ). Jun 24, 2022 · Had a lively chat with partner at the gym yesterday and would love to hear opinions Which is more dangerous, simul-climbing or rope-soloing? Of course, you could say, "it depends", but what is the general consensus? Which would you be more comfortable doing? Please discuss! We tested some other devices on ropes after putting out • Petzl said to NEVER do this a few days ago about micro traxions and having requests for other devices. Dec 23, 2022 · Simultaneous climbing (simul-climbing) and short-fixing are advanced techniques that can help experienced climbers when attempting in-a-day ascents on grade V and VI routes on big walls and in the high country. There is a Petzl data sheet detailing the use of the Tibloc for simul-climbing protection, however Petzl strongly advise against using a Tibloc for self-belayed solo which unless I’m mistaken is a configuration rather similar to that of the second in simulclimbing. Jun 19, 2021 · Hello- I read the Glencoce - Classic Rock in 24 hrs thread and noticed this quite a bit. Jan 22, 2025 · Sling Jams Micro Traxion, Sending Climber into 30-foot Groundfall After her fall, Whitney Clark crawled for 2. 5 hours down talus and scree to reach a rescue helicopter, but ultimately suffered only minor injuries. The micro traxion has disengaged once, versus the grigri never (obvs - there's no catch). Outstanding article from Brent Barghahn about simul-climbing with Micro Traxions I don’t know anything about simul-climbing, but I do know that having all that rope dangling down looks like a really bad idea and a tremendous pain in the ass to manage. It is a little more expensive but worth it. Feb 6, 2021 · The simul-climbing setup with the microtrax is very situational and very high potential consequence. Aug 19, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Simul-climbing Simul-climbing is a fast and efficient way to keep the team moving on easy and varied terrain. Here’s one image from the Petzl website, and you can read more about it here. I’ve heard that toothed devices such as a micro traxion can damage the sheath on a rope or even cut a rope. Buy Petzl Micro Traxion - Golden, Pulleys from Climbing equipment with the best offers. What gives? Anyone know what this is about or knows of a round profile biner with a lanyard hole? Petzl Micro-Traxion Pulley (P53) Description An ultra-light ultra-compact locking (or progress-capture) pulley that is exceptionally efficient (91 %) thanks to its sealed ball bearings. Dec 5, 2023 · Sling Jams Micro Traxion, Sending Climber into 30-foot Groundfall After her fall, Whitney Clark crawled for 2. Dec 28, 2023 · In reply to jafferton91: I've done the 2nd option: 3 climbers equally spaced. Premium Article available Dec 23, 2022 · Simultaneous climbing (simul-climbing) and short-fixing are advanced techniques that can help experienced climbers when attempting in-a-day ascents on grade V and VI routes on big walls and in the Aug 2, 2022 · The most obvious thing to get would be a micro traxion (or similar Edelrid Spoc, nano traxion). Sealed ball Feb 27, 2023 · ANALYSIS “I can’t find any recorded accounts of this type of accident, but I have heard that it has happened before. Dec 30, 2023 · Each climber should have a Tibloc and Micro Traxion, so between a team of 2 you end up with two Micro Traxions and two Tiblocs. As you can see from the photos the new TIBLOC is actually lighter than a medium length prusik! So; lighter than a prusik cord (won’t abrade/degrade in UV either), grips icy ropes better, lighter than the old If we are talking about simul-climbing on the way up a route, I've done that quite a lot, usually it's just a way of extending a pitch - when the rope goes tight, the 2nd starts climbing and the leader just keeps going till they run out of gear, then belays and brings the second up as normal. if you wouldn't feel comfortable without a rope). Dec 11, 2024 · There’s no speed advantage per se it’s just much safer than simul climbing…. Mar 29, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I’d rather be safe then sorry. Mar 22, 2021 · Could you possibly add a 'Simul-Climbed' (aka Moving Together) option to the ascent styles? It's especially useful for logging Alpine routes, or easy trad routes, where it's often favourable to move fast, roped together, placing occasional pieces of gear, over easier ground. Because they were climbing as a team of three, the second climber was tagging (trailing) an additional rope behind him and fixing it at each belay anchor. " [5] In simul-climbing, the strongest climber goes second. Feb 12, 2012 · INTENDED USE: The MICRO TRAXION is an ultralight, ultra-compact progress capture pulley that is designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue, and as an emergency ascender. Could you possibly add a 'Simul-Climbed' (aka Moving Together) option to the ascent styles? It's especially useful for logging Alpine routes, or easy trad routes, where it's often favourable to move fast, roped together, placing occasional pieces of gear, over easier ground. That being said, using the methods we describe in this article will greatly decrease the dangers associated with basic simul-climbing. Both have been on the market for a while and have similar applications in crevasse rescue, hauling, TR ascent, and as part of a system for self-rescue. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? MICRO TRAXION is a compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley (85 g) designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, and self-rescue, and for use as an emergency ascender. [1] Contemporary simul-climbers use progress capture devices (PCDs) — such a Micro Traxion — at some of the protection points Oct 29, 2018 · Though marginally more bulky than the original the new TIBLOC sits perfectly alongside my MICRO TRAXION on a pulley carabiner as my ‘hope I never have to use it’ crevasse rescue kit. Find outdoor deals in Trekkinn | Fast delivery May 8, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Oct 23, 2001 · These guys were trying to climb 100 pitches in a day in Eldorado Canyon. , Micro Traxion). I've also heard too Nov 4, 2012 · Then better check with an expert. Simul-climbing (or using a running-belay) is a climbing technique where a pair of climbers who are attached by a rope simultaneously ascend a multi-pitch climbing route. The cam can be locked in the open position so the device can be used as a simple pulley. Many people (who simul and solo) would say: micro trax has teeth and therefore better for simul and solo as it will catch yet offers little friction. It could range Off-label use of progress-capture devices like the Petzl Micro Traxion or Tibloc, clipped to solid intermediate protection points, can mitigate the danger caused by a second’s fall, but their use is more appropriate in difficult terrain than for traditional simul-climbing ground. But how is this working in practice and how is the orientation of the device ensured? Does it rotate upwards as the leader leads- if it does is this an issue. I think I understand the general idea. Here are some pros and cons based on research and personal experience, along with tips to develop simul-climbing skills. High-efficiency lightweight progress-capture pulley MICRO TRAXION is a compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley (85 g) designed for crevasse rescue, hauling, and self-rescue, and for use as an emergency ascender. g. How do the Petzl Nano Traxion and the Petzl Micro Traxion compare? Diameter at center of rope grooveMicro Traxion: 27 mm (2. Nov 28, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If you get a high enough force, it can desheath your rope and possibly cut through it. Jan 15, 2025 · Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin died on September 3, after a simul-climbing fall while off-route fall on Marmolada, Italy. Simul-climbing is an advanced skill that can save time and increase a team's speed if done well, but which also creates obvious and not-so-obvious risks if done poorly. Simul climbing From Wikipedia: Simul climbing or climbing with a running belay is a climbing method or style where both climbers, climb at the same time while tied into the rope. Many thanks in advance- Ed Dec 6, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jul 19, 2014 · > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. Good stuff here for sure. Another commonly used device with a ball bearing pulley is the Petzl Micro Traxion. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of climbing? What's are the risks? > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. How do you simul climb with micro traxion? Apr 17, 2019 · Speed Climbing Techniques - Safety Third? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Jul 4, 2013 · When simul climbing I carry a micro traxion (or two if my partner have another one). ___more Aug 26, 2024 · Manage Slack – It is imperative with any “toothed” PCD to have minimal slack in the system as the second is climbing. Petzl's Micro-Traxion is the smallest of their progress capture pulleys, highly efficient and ultra small. May 15, 2023 · Off-label use of progress-capture devices like the Petzl Micro Traxion or Tibloc, clipped to solid intermediate protection points, can mitigate the danger caused by a second’s fall, but their use is more appropriate in difficult terrain than for traditional simul-climbing ground. Aug 11, 2013 · How would simul-climbing with the minitrax be different than glacier travel? When looking at a fall. Apr 1, 2020 · I’m mainly a single-pitch sport climber. The short chapter on simul-climbing alone was worth the $10. Doing a speed read of it now and coming across a lot of new ideas, and I consider myself quite an experienced multi-pitch climber (Yosemite, Red Rocks, Squamish, El Potrero Chico, etc. Hence it isn’t for everyone. 03 or less, which would impact a micro-traxion placed in the system far less. . Let's have a closer look the two suitable for alpine climbing, the Micro Traxion and relatively new Nano Traxion. With bomber multidirectional gear pass the rope through a one-way device- micro-traxion. Mar 6, 2025 · Belaying a follower with a Petzl Microtraxion? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. We used a combination of simul-climbing with inline Traxion belays, pull-cord resupplies, fix and following, FiFi release hauling, lead-line hauling, tag-line hauling, and more both to move fast enough and manage the weight. But there was an accident, basically a long (factor ~2) leader fall. Climb together- placing gear / slings etc. It features a lockable cam for use as a standard pulley and sealed ball bearings for 91% efficiency. In the book we suggest gadgets like the micro-traxion are key simul-climbing tools. Jan 28, 2004 · Re: Re: Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free I've used micro traxion or grigri a lot for rope-soloing (without backup) while equipping new routes. I also look into whether or not these devices actually cause shieth damage on ropes. Also reckoned to be the the best device around for self top-roping Jan 31, 2008 · I have a lot of experience solo top-roping with a Pro-Traxion, and that seems to make sense to me for simul-climbing if I wanted to use one that way. 7 times a 10mm rope)Nano Traxion: Sep 27, 2018 · In the past year, El Capitan has seen two accidents involving speed climbers, the Nose speed record broken three times, and two other speed climbing deaths. I’ve dabbled in most forms of climbing, including some misadventures in the alpine, but for the most part I remain unfamiliar with the systems we will need to get up and down beyond not getting myself killed. Basically any where that a pulley, an ascender, and especially both would be useful this device shines. However on long routes it is well worth knowing how to do it so you can get over easy terrain as quickly as possible and to remove the odd belay. CONSTRUCTION: The sealed ball bearings provide excellent efficiency in a compact package. Apr 22, 2022 · The duo free climbed Freerider (5. The Micro Traxion is an improvement on the Mini Traxion as it is lighter, smaller and more efficient at hauling. Hans Florine does a great job describing a simul-climbing strategy in his book Speed Climbing! Mar 19, 2024 · Our ascent was a logistical puzzle that required modern multipitch techniques and many hours of planning to solve. I'm reaching out to this knowledgeable community to get some real-world feedback on these two Oct 19, 2021 · Ready to venture into big wall adventures, but not sure which is the best rock climbing pulley? Are you figuring out if you want an auto-locking pulley to self-belay or to use for simul-climbing, so that a fall from the lower climber will not pull the upper climber from the rock face? There are many climbing pulleys on the market that could satisfy your pulley-related needs. These are handy for self rescue, and by having four devices you will allow yourself to maximise any long simul climbing blocks. Therefore, I’ll be relying upon Zach for his knowledge. > Ropeman has a toothless cam, which people seem to think is an advantage for simul-climbing & solo toproping. The third climber then would self-belay on this rope using progress-capture devices (e. Dec 13, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I haven't come across the two 'followers' close together method. When simulclimbing, I often pop in a microtraxion on a bomber piece every once in a while as a precaution. I’m thinking about setting up a Petzl Rescucender as my main device with a backup. vzce mwcaq tjykax gahvml iggjvz lgy fcee gmfdz bwve fobdhwm