flat strap photo

Finger jam climbing reddit. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense.


  • Finger jam climbing reddit. 25 votes, 60 comments. Being a strong climber isn't a mathematical formulation of max_pull_up + max_hang. I just held off climbing for a week and a half, and then limited myself from climbing anything above 5. I want to default to icing ringers only immediately after Covering cuts on fingers, compression for your fingers to help with injuries, and buddy taping an injured finger to it's next door neighbor to again, prevent injuries. Or, as you go to What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. There is plenty of good data on how many are injured so no need r/fingerclimbing: An open source community to share finger climbing routes, beta, questions, and general discussion. Small things like feeling how to spread your fingers, layering your palms and fists correctly during jams, the right angle and amount of torque so your shoes take as much of the brunt as possible during laybacks. Just saw an orthopedic surgeon for my finger injury and I’m totally screwed. I don’t recall having any popping sounds but… Oct 18, 2024 · This style of climbing may sound uncomfortable, but I promise it will get better. Jamming your hands and feet into cracks can be difficult (and painful) at first, but great fun once you learn the techniques. Make or Break is indeed a wonderful book and after consulting my copy and waiting out the acute phase of a day or two I was happy to make a careful return to climbing, taking care to only crimp with Reddit's rock climbing training community. If there's more pain you should give it more rest, if it doesnt change at all then maybe you're good to give easy climbing a try. A perfect finger jam usually feels natural and secure, but you will often need to adjust your technique to fit the unique contours of each crack. I went to my GP and she mentioned doing PT. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Pro-tip for pure off fingers to thumbstacks: Wear flat shoes 2 sizes too big, gives you a good amount of rubber to insert and twist into the crack. Rehab procedure Finger pushups are both un-ergonomic and hard to progressively load. The small pro makes it easier to forget though! 129 votes, 26 comments. Apr 20, 2021 · Traditional climbing, where the climber places removable protection as he climbs, requires cracks to provide protection. How do the nba players overcome this problem? They could just play through the pain but won't that affect their shooting and handling? 25 votes, 60 comments. No, you’re not suddenly Peter Croft or Steph Davis —you’ve simply become adept at the elusive hand jam, a crack climbing technique that, once mastered, feels bomber while requiring minimal effort. Try hanging from it for a few seconds and see how your finger feels. I am currently 1 month in to a 4 month climbing trip and would be very disappointed if I needed to cease climbing for an extended period of time. For cracks smaller than hand size, finger jams are the answer. Stay off of it, or it or the tear won't be able to heal properly. You go to catch a football or basketball, but instead of the ball sailing smoothly into your hands, it smashes into the tip of your finger. I think it definitely has to do with the twinge i felt while climbing - i was crimping on a side pull and made a dynamic move up to the next hold with my other hand when i felt it. While climbing on some basalt at Smith Rock yesterday, I had my left hand middle and ring finger in a pocket as a threw to a next So okay, last summer on a 90 degree day I decided that since it was too humid for finger jams maybe It was the right weather for an 11d offwidth (I climb . You create finger jams by inserting some or all of your fingers into a crack, ideally to the second or third knuckle, and lock them off on a constriction in the crack or by rotating your elbow down to torque your fingers into a jam. I'm worried about injuring my fingers. Would hand jams have a positive impact on finger strength similarly to actually climbing or is there little transfer between normal climbing and crack climbing? Contracting your fingers and thumbs use the flexor pollicis longus & flexor digitorum profundus (Hand Muscles Source). Seems to be an unnecessary amount of injury. 14 in Squamish Feb 6, 2023 · A jammed finger is a common occurrence. Looks like a bomber placement for a red Alien, the rock seems solid enough. 14 in Squamish Oct 16, 2012 · Jamming isn’t something you learned by climbing trees as a child. I've never had ring locks hurt as bad as a necessary bomber finger jam or rattly finger lock. The vibram five fingers focus too much pressure on your metatarsals. Just because the joints get beaten up and change in shape doesn't mean arthritis. My main takeaway from my years of climbing and dealing with injuries is that resting and hoping for your fingers to heal doesn't work. A jammed finger is just a bump, and no damage will ever come of it. The resulting jam is way better than anything you could get with tight or even normally sized shoes. Pretty much only useful at the creek though. I think regular barefoot shoes are better. Just over 2 weeks ago, I went up for a dunk and jammed my ring and pinky finger. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. And when the crack is hand-sized, it can be a highway to heaven. Cupped hands, fingers, and moving THROUGH a hand stack does sound like a useful experience/conditioning on a trainer, but I imagine ring locks/thumb stacks (and middle finger stacks) are hard to replicate as well without constrictions. It’s been about 3 weeks and the joints are still too swollen to make a closed fist making it stiff to move them let alone climb with. 11 votes, 27 comments. You start falling backwards and your foot is stuck you end up upside down with your knee twisted in an inhuman way. I’ve read through a lot of it, but am looking for novel opinions and advice. And it doesn't go away by climbing them more or anything. But if it's really arthritis, then I don't know :/ Early attempts to resolve: Wore a splint at night, taped when climbing, voodoo flossing, massage. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Aug 14, 2021 · Learn the basics and tricks for dialing in finger cracks by one of the world's top crack climbers, Pete Whittaker. May 5, 2021 · During climbing, fingers are used to hang on a variety of holds differing in shapes, sizes, orientation, and directions. Oct 18, 2024 · This style of climbing may sound uncomfortable, but I promise it will get better. But when it narrows to fingers, the real battle begins—even hand-crack wizards might take the ride. Not going by any set routine or anything; just hanging for 7-10 seconds with minutes of rest in between. No history of carpal tunnel, and the numbness was in the fingers and hand only. Finger jam: To finger jam, assess the size of a finger crack (a crack wide enough to accommodate just your fingers as opposed to your entire hands) in comparison to your own finger size. You may be able to fit an index finger, a pinky, or multiple appendages. The warning is because it's giving you beta and just fucked your onsight. Unless your feet are freakishly small, you’ll have to jam just your tippy toes, smear on the edges of the crack, or look for holds on the been climbing for a bit now and started climbing crack. trueDoes that mean you didn't have arthritis before you started climbing? Have you actually had x-rays to check for joint space narrowing (worn away cartilage)? Because it can happen that they misinterpret regular climber symptoms with advanced osteoarthritis. An entire body jam is climbed in what is called an “off-width” crack. trueI've been working on crack climbing in the gym for a few months now, and I'm now working on ring locks and finger jams. Unfortunately I’m forced to repeat the jam and over time it has destroyed my hand and my pinky finger looks as though I have smashed it with a mallet. I keep getting a stuff painful feeling in my ring finger right after I take out a hand jam. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. Some cracks only allow fingers inside, while others can fit your entire body. About a 1-2 years ago, I jammed my finger playing football and never decided to take a break despite pain. Plagued my climbing for like 2 years. At the 5 month mark I took 3 weeks off but actually that made it worse. Are we posting pics of peoples fingers now? Here's Didier Berthod's undercling mono jam on Cobra Crack 5. We stack fingers, jam them in cracks, pockets and pull hard on nail-sized holds. You need active recovery, keep your fingers engaged with lighter exercises, and build up from there. So recently I've gotten into the same argument several times with friends who are new to crack-climbing: does hand-jamming when crack climbing increase the likelihood of a hand injury if you fall? Apr 13, 2022 · Cruising the perfect hand crack is a joyous feeling. It is an undercling by principle, but you do have to engage the finger or it will slip out. A sprain means you have torn a ligament or tendon, usually just a partial tear. Wedge whatever you can into the Reddit's rock climbing training community. (Real dumb idea) after about a month, all really noticeable signs of pain went away If you have basic crack climbing technique but are ready to step it up to the next level, it's time to learn how to climb a finger crack. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Hey guys, I’ve had pain for a week in my middle finger just above the middle knuckle, does anyone have any tips for how to test for an injury and how long I should rest if it’s a tendon, or should I be climbing a grade or two below limit? Usually having smaller fingers or hands would change a crack from fingertips to fingers, or thin hands to comfy hands (but can also change fingers to rattly fingers, and hands, to awkwardly cupper hands, and fists, to off width) but I don't think it's usually so extreme to change a finger crack for one person to a nice hand jam for someone else. The pain/stiffness is right at the joint and only on my ring finger. A long break will just make it come right back immediately with weaker fingers. I mean don’t get me wrong i was bleeding all the time from my fingers when i started but i don’t think I’ve ever bruised. This article covers crack climbing jams from fingertip width to full body chimneys, as well as recommended clothing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Instead of grabbing normal holds, you wedge body parts into cracks. My dumb ass decided that the best way to get back in shape was doing daily crimp pullups, then I tried to just keep climbing and deal with the pain. For fingers I use cheap thin Walmart cloth tape with a tiny dab of super glue on my skin to keep the tape where it is. Have you tried I couldn't find this kind of information readily available, only lots of anecdotal advice, so lets collect some unscientific data! We are talking about internal finger injuries severe enough that you didn't recover from them within days and they constrained your climbing in some way. The characteristics of the crack determine how a climber will jam. Take a short break from climbing for now, not too long. I'm female with smaller hands so my male climbing friends can cruise up these cracks! The good thing is that the crack size is perfect for foot jams, but I'm struggling to find solid placement for my hands. I've iced it and taken anti inflammatories, but while the swelling has reduced (at the joint where it meets my hand) I wake with considerable stiffness and it's an hour or more before I can make a fist and get that finger to join in. Hello. I'm 40 now. Check it out! 1. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. I managed to jam my ring and index finger on my left hand playing basketball and am having trouble with them healing. Cupping my hands further or a sideways fist jam sometimes works, but I'm wondering if you guys have any other advice. I have watched the wild country crack school but they don't touch on it too much. A little over two weeks ago, I was climbing a boulder with a nasty crimp and heard a big pop and had immediate pain in my right ring finger at the base and extending into the centre of my palm. I don’t recall having any popping sounds but… Reddit's rock climbing training community. Regular rest days with mild soreness Acute injury (tender/tweaked) performing submaximally Especially for acute injuries, I have been lead to believe I should ice it constantly from other sports, but its already a limited bloodflow region. Obviously only climbing related injuries count. Any tips on how to avoid this in the… 168K subscribers in the climbharder community. The more you use the finger the more sore the area will get and the more frequently you will be in pain. Crack climbers, on the other hand, put their fingers through a lot of compression when they jam and as a result they have much larger joints via this mechanism. To climb a finger crack you’ll need to use what’s called a finger jam. Your foot is in a bomber foot jam, but the fingers are insecure. Putting that much weight on a couple fingers fucking hurts sometimes. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. For an average sprain, I'm back to 80% functionality after 3-4 days with a treatment of ice and immobilization during the first 48 hours. I took up rock climbing when I was 17 and it has been my consistent hobby over the years, almost like a companion. Footwork: Finger-size cracks require fancy footwork. Are there any techniques or tape . While its possible finger pull ups aren't appropriate for you depending on your current finger strength and climbing experience, they are in no way pointless or reckless. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Apr 1, 2022 · A comprehensive treatment plan, written by a physical therapist and based on evidence-based research, to rehab your injured finger. Love the pain or quit. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. I would argue they are a more controlled and easier variant on campus boarding. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the Sep 12, 2023 · Climbing finger cracks can be more physical than other crack climbing, but it still demands good technique. And have been going to the non-climbing gym to keep training. I got golfer's elbow from hang boarding, which surprised me because it seemed like I was well below the level that I'd think would be problematic. A 2 week trip to font temporarily healed the injury (at the 3 month mark), probably because of open-handing, but it came back within a week of being back on my home rock. When life is stressful and difficult, I can go either to an outdoor crag or to an indoor climbing gym and climb until I feel like my body doesn't want to move anymore. Last week I was training two finger pockets (middle and ring finger) on the hang board. I stopped climbing anything with crimps or slopers. Any of the above can lead to transient finger pain that may resolve as well as leading to some sort of structural damage. A jammed finger and a sprain are not the same thing or similar. 12 crack but had never attempted anything above . I always felt like this sub had more analytical analysis of training Kind of specific, but I’ve had some trouble with these cracks, which are finger sized at the mouth but widen further back, making it hard to ringlock or get good contact with a finger jam. I'm in mid-rehab, with some improvement, and I don't think jamming relies much on the Personal background 36M I've been climbing since 2017, mostly indoors, and took some time off from early 2020 into 2021 I restarted climbing mid-2021 around V3/V4 and recently broke thru to climb V5 about six weeks ago Developing finger pain 😭 A couple of months back I developed some right-hand ring finger pain, I’m pretty sure while climbing an overhang V4 (or maybe overdoing pull Do rice bucket stuff post-climbing, and especially during recovery now. I really like it. Also--there is no use flailing on straight in tight to locker fingers, move with some control and I was wondering if anyone had advice for recovering from jammed fingers. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Any guidance on what to do next? *? I jammed my right hand 'ring finger' three weeks ago leaping for a hold. Mar 13, 2023 · Imagine climbing a hard, dead-vertical 120-foot pitch without feeling the slightest bit pumped. This subreddit is moderated by… I suffered the same kind of injury nearly a month ago when I sloppily lost my footing with my left ring and middle finger jammed deep in a pocket. It looks like a mono pocket, but its actually 2 holds screwed really close together to make a small crack for the jam. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. Sorry that this may be a random question but i recently jammed my finger playing ball and it is hurts a lot when i bend it. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. It’ll take some practice, but once you learn the techniques, cracks become your roads to success on all kinds of rock. For a thumbs-down finger lock, look for a place in the finger crack where it constricts and start with your elbows pointing away from you. And yes we are scared of falling. About five years ago, I began to notice small bumps on the backs of my fingers Oct 15, 2021 · Jams are the various holds and grips essential to crack climbing. 1. I took a bit off climbing but have now started again about 2x a week and the day after it's always sore. Oct 6, 2021 · Organized by width of crack (finger, hand and fist, offwidth, and chimney), Crack Climbing covers everything from basics like the hand jam through advanced techniques including the sidewinder and trout tickler. Hey all, I dont know when it is effective to heat or chill fingers in 2 different contexts. As for techniques, just master ring locks, finger jams, hand jams, fist jams, stacked hands (hand/fist or fist/fist), chicken wings, arm bars, double arm bars, toe jams, foot jams, stacked feet, knee bars, chest I jammed my finger badly falling off a horse (long story) I never braced it afterwards (dumb) and it has reached a point where it doesn't seem to be getting better after 3 months. Anyone else experienced a finger injury with no pain on an active hold but pain upon touch/pressure to the area? Not climbing, but I had spent last little while doing wrist stuff from armwrestling training, and then when trying either the sloper on my hangboard or boulders I’ve noticed a huge increase in my capability. Once it can support your weight, start with limited exercises. Knowing how to confidently jam cracks is the first step in entering the world of trad climbing. The next few days, I noticed Any tips for finger injury recovery? Ive been climbing for about a year and a half and climb around v4. This article teaches you the basics of finger crack climbing, including finger jams, ringlocks and footwork. 9 trad for the next month. Additionally tasks like pulling up the bedspread in the morning (gripping and tugging Ive been climbing every week 4 times a week now for a year up to v6-v7 and i had no idea that was even a thing. It doesn't seem like it's getting any better not climbing but the 476 votes, 264 comments. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. F = ma. Needless to say that was a bad idea. Aug 5, 2022 · The finger jam involves inserting your fingers and then torquing downward to create friction in the gap. I found that finger rolls and progressive ELI5: What actually happens when your finger gets "jammed" and why does it hurt so much? Archived post. The secret to floating up finger fissures is still in the feet, but you’ve got less to work with. The home of Climbing on reddit. Hey Everyone, I’ve recently came upon a boulder problem that has a hand jam in the first couple moves, I don’t have an issue holding it or moving off of it, but there is a rather difficult move later on. First off, I know there is a lot of literature on finger injuries related to climbing. Stick your fingers between the segments of the pinch. How do the nba players overcome this problem? They could just play through the pain but won't that affect their shooting and handling? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Climb openhanded more. 8 sport and 5. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I wouldn't exercise the finger until 48 hours after the injury, minimum. Recently I noticed some pain in my right index finger tendon (the one that goes over the top of my knuckle, don't know the name). 8K votes, 86 comments. Like a solid hand-jam, a well-placed finger-lock can feel like you could hang off it all day. The best course of action for a ganglion cyst that causes you pain is to visit your primary care doctor to get a referral to a hand surgeon. The dab is strong enough to keep the tape from sliding, but small enough that I don't rip off skin when I take it off. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Feb 9, 2020 · FINGER-LOCKS Inserting finger knuckles into a constriction in the crack is known as a finger-lock. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. i got hand and fist jams down but am having trouble with "thumbs up/down finger jams" and cracks that are a little too wide for a finger lock/jam but too small for hand jams. Reply reply [deleted] • Reply reply gannex • Reply reply [deleted] • Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies wetuoadgjlzcbm • Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Just like the picture says. Maybe ease into climbing with easy hangboarding once your swelling has decreased. Here are seven of the most common: 1. Hoping it isn't anything serious, but will def see a doctor if it continues. I got these pretty painful cuts/flappers after bouldering for the first time. The force on my hands and feet when jammed into tight places is about 90% of the reason i enjoy it. In all seriousness, like all climbing, time and technique will assist to reduce the damage of crack/off-width climbing. Unless you're looking at splitter fist cracks I wouldn't worry about specifically training it. I'm looking to see if anyone can help me to begin to understand the injury I sustained while climbing yesterday. 10 offwidth) after about 25' of pure suffering I managed to stick my whole right leg into a bomber jam, like such an awesome jam that I could instantly take both hands off the rock and shake Had this happen in August while at the City of Rocks. Had my left hand in a finger crack while I was reaching for a crimp with the right and I miss my next foot, putting most of my weight on the left jam. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Boulderers/sport climbers purely put their fingers through tension when they climb. hnar lrkp lhftt vxorpkj dpseg mgoaewi cymekp yuct dzepcwd jlry