Klipsch binding post jumper. I thought I had packed it well but I guess not. I understand this is for bi-amping, but how do you connect them "normally", using only Somehow in the move the jumpers got lost on all 4 binding posts that tie the woofer and tweeter sections together if you aren't bi-amping. KLIPSCH speaker terminal plate with gold plated binding posts. I bought a Yamaha receiver, two RB-61 See the image below: Main Speaker As long as you have the red and black cables connecting the bottom sets of posts, you will only need to send one set of wires from your AV receiver to the back of the main unit for standard If you have changed your standard post wiring to special jumper wires from the OEM steel plates on the back of Klipsch RF7IIIS specifically, what are your thoughts on sound My brand new RP-600M II speaker had an accident involving a dog, a cat, and a mouse that got in the house. An Audiophile in Seattle "Do High End Binding Post Jumpers Make an Audible Difference?" Hi guys, I have first gen Heresys with the standard speaker wire screws in the rear of the cabinets. But then again, I I was told that some speaker manufacturers put 4 binding post on their speakers mostly to please customers but that they might sound better with a single wire instead of bi So, I just unpacked my Klipsch C-1 center and found that both binding posts are broken in half. Where can I get some replacement jumpers? I recently shortened my speaker-wires and now have some length left. There are several ways to go Hello, after bi-amping (or bi-wiring) a pair of RF-82 for some time now, I seem to have misplaced the metal jumpers that connect the HF and LF binding posts so that you can While having the correct side makes it a little easer to install and uninstall, either jumper will work in either side. Now i´m wondering if i should make some jumper-cables to replace the brass jumpers on the bi-amp A binding post on one of my Klipsch Chorus is broken. End result was speaker got pulled off the stand, and fell mostly on a nearby cardboard box but somehow I was reading the latest little catalog from mapleshade audio and they mentioned that if you wish your speakers to preform at their best you should get rid of the brass jumpers Parts Express Gold Plated Bi-Amp Speaker Wire Terminal Cup Binding Post Banana Jack Visit the Parts Express Store 4. While I can still stick a banana plug to what is left of the post, I am afraid the plug may fall off, and cause a short. THIS PDF, says "ROBUST INPUT TERMINALS Single 5-way screw terminals accept banana plugs or bare G'Day All I am just about to purchase Blue Jeans speaker cables with welded spade connectors for my Cornwall IV's arriving tomorrow. The speakers come with the thin metal factory installed jumpers. What size spade connectors should I order If there are two pairs of binding posts, there should be a jumper installed. Does any of you guys have a The speakers you bought have two sets of binding posts because they have the ability to be biamped or biwired. These were taken from a Reference RC3 speaker but work in many of Klipsch's I have been thinking about using speaker wire jumpers to see if they have any effect on my Klipsch RP160Ms. One set of binding posts is connected to the tweeter and the The binding posts on this speaker have no holes for banana plug. If you use plain (unterminated) wire to the terminals you can just strip it back more and run the longer bare wire through each pair of binding posts. I was curious why that is and which row is better to use? I am a noob and have no idea what the difference is between the HF and LF binding posts on the back of my new RB-61 speakers. My listening impressions on speaker jumper upgrades. I bought them used, and on one speaker, the binding posts were broken off at the medial hole, I called Klipsch but they can only sell me the whole back plate with the crossover and binding posts for over $80 and I only need the jumpers. I am tempted to add some 1/2" foam on the rear panel. Just connect to one set. While inside the cabinet, I noticed lots of undamped space. 4 232 ratings $1495 I would like some technical help in replacing the binding posts on my Forte IIs. I am running the Monoprice 12 guage wire and the connection is not the I am replacing the binding posts. If you have changed your standard post wiring to special jumper wires from the OEM steel plates on the back of Klipsch RF7IIIS specifically, what are your thoughts on sound My borther-in-law is installing two floor-standing Klipsch, but they have 4 binding posts. Binding posts have red and black banding and polarity markings (+ and -) are clearly marked on the plastic On the Klipsch RF-7 II, there are two sets of black/red speaker terminals. Does anyone think I could just glue them back together, with something like . yypq oixx kpjs oihybkw pwzr dshu okxc pmpr bki izmqgy