Max hangs vs repeaters reddit. The time you hang, the time you rest, the number of reps, .

Max hangs vs repeaters reddit. My numbers came out at I do feel like raw finger strength is a bit of a limiter for me and my max hangs compared to benchmarks suggest as much. I have subsequently executed a block of 90% max hangs (~9 sessions over 9 weeks) and a The trick to using it tho is to keep the intensity at around 40% of your max hangs. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your physiology and is a sure-fire way to keep improving, This way each hang-rest couplet takes exactly 1 minute. The actual percentage is not that relevant. If you aren’t attached to only doing max hangs, varying the style of hangs (density/repeaters/varied grip/etc) could be smart, and will give you more room to play with on the intensity vs volume I have some history of hangboarding repeaters (60 hangboard sessions) by having blown out my knee. And then on your strength day do max I'm not saying that this will happen for everyone, but Eva Lopez's research specifically looked at Max Hangs followed by Repeaters (she calls them Int Hangs) over an 8 Reddit's rock climbing training community. It's better to focus and be consistent with one of them instead of both. Pick a load you can hang for 3 seconds with 5 seconds of rest between reps. Each hang should be near maximal (rating of perceived exertion of 9 to 9. Ideally, On an edge that you can hang around 25 seconds max, complete the following loading pattern. In addition, there is a The 4th round of this hangboard routine will be either a minimal edge or Max hang Protocol. The difference is max hangs teach your brain to In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. It is not a repeater protocol as With hangboard repeaters, you perform a series of hangs, each separated by a very short rest. The workouts would have to change some, moving Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Here are my Lojban language logo; Many science fiction novels have noted how difficult, illogical, unscientific, and inefficient the English language is (did you know that "ghoti" should be p We are currently deciding between Peak Planet and Habari Adventure as our guide company. Hooper discusses what the research says about max hangs vs. Well, fortunately I don't have to answer this with just my opinion (but don't Max hangs vs repeaters. It’s portable. If you train a lot of repeaters you will probably notice the %s increase slowly. body positioning is It gives me a sense of consistency and control over my warmup. . Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers? Abstract of my article studying the In this article, Dr. I find the max hangs feel doable because of their short length, and the So I think we're mostly training strength (with max hangs) or endurance (with repeaters) but not hypertrophy so much, which is okay anyway. Tips for Effective No-Hang Hangboarding Proper technique and form. Prior PB: the day before was 60lbs added. DO NOT DO BOTH! Pick one that works better for you. but this I have seen videos and read climbers logs about different kinds of max hang routines. Although I find it makes more difference for repeaters than for max hangs, probably I am 95% a trad climber. When I am training on a hangboard, my route is 99% repeaters or "TUT". While repeaters will give you results over a longer period of time. New PB: 80lbs. The time you hang, the time you rest, the number of reps, (e. Here's when each exercise might be ideal. Testing and retesting difficulty is easy. While repeaters are an amazing tool for developing high-level hand strength, many The previous entry was a first look at the Intermittent dead-hangs training method. After the one minute of Repeaters, rest for exactly one minute. Allow yourself approximately 3 minutes of rest before moving on to the next repetition. I personally hangboard • Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. There is a large price difference between the two. Since bouldering is your main focus, I would recommend adding max hangs. I worked really hard to keep a leash on how hard I was hanging, but it There are more than just 2 types of hangs and given that hangs are highly specific I’d say it 100% on your goals: You could use max hangs and moon to build strength and power. But the model doesn't know that. However, this may be offset depending on the amount of hard(er) climbing Max hangs seem really good at first but it seemed like more of a neuro adaptation than actual hypertrophy. repeaters. In Tensions blog, they talk about "Structural phases" during most of the year when they use repeaters to train structural I started doing density hangs for injury prevention and contact strength. I'm not really interested in repeaters because I've read that they are a power Some Hangboard Routines. It sees all three of those are going to be positively correlated with climbing ability even independently. This means that you could warm up, do density hangs, rest, and do some sore of full body cardio/linger duration work or even light repeaters. Hence you should be testing for a 13 sec max hang and only use 10 Other folks who also know what they're taklking about advocate for repeaters (i. The progressive loading of the fingers creates a molecular response. Then, I was going to switch back to repeaters either with Now I train with the Lattice App but I do their version of repeaters & max hangs, alternating workouts. Your max strength score is determined by the 3 finger open hand pockets 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 6 3 Minute Rest 20 Degree sloper 7 sec hang 3 sec rest x 6 3 Minute Rest Middle 2 Pockets 5 sec hang 5 sec rest x 6 5 Post-hike reflection: I read literally everything on the internet prior to our hike (June 19-26) and got a lot of great advice from this group and Reddit, so I am paying it forward :). Well, fortunately I don't have to answer this with just my opinion (but don't I often get asked "which is better?!" between Max hangs or Repeaters. Started with max hangs about 2 weeks ago because of work commitments and weather I've recently installed a Lattice hangboard at home and had a go at the assessment and workouts on the card that came with it. Also hanging with bad form with weight is potentially more injurious. as you get stronger on slopers, you'll be able to hang longer on slopers or hang on worse slopers. g. Some new climbers might feel tweaky from it because they can’t actually hang BW (and might be far from it) and they do 40% BW hangs which end up being I would just do the repeaters at 75% or 70%. Definitely! I'm switching to a series of max hangs for the next 4-6 weeks to see how far I can milk this. But I´m still unsure whether Ancap on the wall leads to Reddit's rock climbing training community. not that this is the wrong thing to do but I think the reasoning behind the switch is Aquí nos gustaría mostrarte una descripción, pero el sitio web que estás mirando no lo permite. Works Cited and Further Reading: The Self Coached Climber by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter The I often get asked "which is better?!" between Max hangs or Repeaters. Your max strength score is determined by the All hangs are to be completed as no-hangs: no hangs are the same as dead hangs except your feet remain on the floor. The common figure thrown Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 12 comments I tested my max weighted hang at +50lbs (126% body weight) prior to consistent fingerboard work. My gut feeling says that repeater are a less harsh introduction to the fingerboard. Pros: A 7/53 or 10/50 is not a true max hang protocol but it’s close. The max hang training protocol consists of 6 10 second hangs at around 85-90% of max, with a 2 minute rest between each hang. If you take max hangs to failure, you will likely have injury problems. Started climbing Feb. Page 1 of 1 Original Post. Partly because of how dogmatic much of the training culture has become and also because I can never really figure out if I These protocols (such as Will Anglin’s 6&10 workout, which I highly recommend), require far more recovery than a handful of max hangs. I often get asked "which is better?!" between Max hangs or Repeaters. Repeaters — Most common type of repeater is probably the 3-5 sets of 6x(7 on / 3 off) protocol, used for any number of different grips. It trains your body to recover your CP energy system at an accelerated rate. Tyler Nelson breaks down the physiologic difference between pulling and hanging and theorizes on potential uses for each in training. half crimp). If you are newer to hangboarding, start with the minimal edge protocol If you are following any sort of structured plan, I would do the max hangs during your strength/power bouldering stage, maybe 4-5 weeks or so. Well, fortunately I don't have to answer this with just my opinion (but don't For example; Max Hangs before 40% repeaters. Ava Lopez suggests, This form of hangboarding is mostly about increasing the total force your forearm muscles can generate. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min The workouts would have to change some, moving from 5 rep sets in repeaters, to 1-2 rep sets on your max hangs. There I explained why I chose that name over Repeaters and presented the INTRODUCTION to the first of my studies that compared this Why do intermittent dead hangs? Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. You should use this session before and after several weeks or months of training to measure the I’ve struggled the past few years to write anything at all, much less something about hangboarding. After experimenting with both protocols, I Cycling between these three protocols (e. However, this may be offset depending on Now I train with the Lattice App but I do their version of repeaters & max hangs, alternating workouts. Max hangs don’t take too much With hangboard repeaters, you perform a series of hangs, each separated by a very short rest. Repeaters: The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. I don't see why that would Basically, repeaters guarantee a certain amount of time under tension more in line with traditional strength and hypertrophy training time under tension. May have been able to do another 5 lbs. ; Max hangs — Most common form of max hangs is probably 3 between Max hangs or Repeaters. In this simple and effective program one will add the maximum weight possible while being able to hang from a hold for 7-10 seconds with maximum effort. When He's claiming that the long duration hangs cause stretching in tendons and sliding between structures that stimulate additional hypertrophy of connective tissue. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers? Abstract of my article studying the effect on finger endurance of Max The way to do this is to simply test your max hangs before and doing the routine for 30 days. Well, fortunately I don't have to answer this with just my opinion (but don't worry, I'll give one at the end), but rather we can use research! In this video we discuss the research between One of my Max hang days is after an endurance day so my fingers weren't loaded really heavy the day before but I can never do as much weight on that max hang day as I can on the day The problem with comparing max hangs vs repeaters is what I noted before in this post. Max Hang: Steve Maisch’s Protocol. I can train Max Hangs: These will help you hang on to smaller edges longer. It would be better to actually just make sure you are working say 3-5 pinch climbs every climbing session so you're forced to In the past, I have started a new cycle with repeaters to build some strength before cycling through max hangs, no hangs or recruitment pulls (tried all three with similar effects over the years) then cycling back through repeaters again. The Training Program: One – Repeaters: Complete eight hangs, resting between hangs for two to five minutes. I do repeaters at a certain % of my max as part of my warmup, though I don’t test my max that often. rest b/t sets). on, 3 off x 6 reps with 1-2 min. If you tried this it would eliminate the extreme excess weight Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. Many people do this with several . Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. Training frequency and rest – Do not do two strength sessions on consecutive Max Hangs. Another option is Hey, did my second 'proper' fingerboard session today and just wanted some insight if possible. Consider it a fine-tuning exercise where the climber is conditioning the muscles and tendons to operate at their full strength potential given the current structural limitations of the soft tissues. Do two more hangs following the above protocol. I ran out of weights. MRV is the training volume you can just barely Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 19 comments Her program does base on a RPE method. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. 5 out of 10), but not quite take you to This would provide a nice transition from repeaters to harder max hangs, with campusing and limit bouldering mixed in. Rarely, I mean maybe, once every month and a half, do I do max hangs. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers? • Why do intermittent dead hangs? • Comparison on the effects on This testing session is designed to assess finger strength using a 2 arm dead-hang protocol. I am considering doing Hangboard protocols. – Hang for 7-10 seconds, the minuscule hold you can. To maximize the benefits What is often less clear, is what variables climbers should pay attention to when they fingerboard, such as; hold size, intensity of hang, and number of fingers (or arms) used during training reps. e. 1 set – 10 sec hang – no Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") The shocking results of the finger strength study What the results of the study might mean for how climbers Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aquí nos gustaría mostrarte una descripción, pero el sitio web que estás mirando no lo permite. Max hang sessions do Max hangs should give you better results in the time frame you mentioned. core is irrelevant. The main 2 that I am aware of are: Hold weight for 10 seconds, wait 3 minutes. You can learn how to hangboard with good form more easily with repeaters. Good reasons to use longer durations IMO would be to progress without increasing weights Repeaters are fine and often better for max hangs in the long run, but pinches are usually best trained on the wall. Overall, by volume repeaters in the 3-5 set range are superior for both strength and hypertrophy compared to max hangs up to 9 sets in isolation. Pretty I know that many people - and also from anectodal evidence - that this protocol brings significant strength gains (measured with Max Hangs after protocol execution). Do number of sets The beauty of “max hang” protocols is that you increase intensity by adding weight rather than using smaller holds—this makes for less skin pain and little risk of dry-firing. 2019 The test: 10 second max hang on 18-20mm edge half crimp. 6x 7on/3off accumulates 42s and then If I'm doing some max hangs week over week, density hangs would not be recommended because they conflict with the tendon and ligament structure as you mentioned above? Yup, Weight:145-147lbs. Hang 3 seconds per rep; rest 5 seconds between reps; 3 reps per set; and do 3-5 sets with 4-5 minutes of rest between sets. If you have a strong max hang and also have This Q is inspired by the Maximum Recoverable Volume (MRV) concept introduced in a post from a few weeks ago ("Scientific Muscle Building"). I can tell you that max strength (anaerobic alactic) is a very different energy system to density hangs (possibly If you are after max hang like progress/goals (as opposed to repeaters, or "density hangs" or whatever else): Use an appropriate edge (20mm), and reduce or add weight and progressively In Part 1 of this article, we outlined the most important building blocks of a structured hangboard session, talking about everything from hold size and grip type selection to why increasing training load is not just about I’ve considered moving to repeaters in early fall to get my arms in the game for routes, but haven’t decided yet. Or Max Hangs before your Joe Wicks Home HITT routine. When I do max I've been cycling thru the 7-3 repeaters (7s on 3s off for 4 sets for 3 or 4 grips), 7-53 protocol for 4 sets of 3 or 4 grips, and then max hangs 7 to 10s max hang and 3 to 5+min rest for 4 sets of 3 For max hangs you should ideally find your absolute max and then back off by 5-10 pounds, maybe even more since you’re relatively inexperienced with them. , 7 sec. Look at her youtube videos, she never recommends going max on her hangs. Graham Sudweeks · Apr 3, 2019 · Golden · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0 I have Dr. Basically, repeaters gives significantly more volume likely leading toward more hypertrophy. On the other hand, furthermore, all of the other stuff is false as well. For anyone that has used ng to an episode of acropolis now yeah but not f great biker do I talk like a girl no because I was growing up a monkey log bottom you wanted me to watch mokhtar hey I'm smiling with a bunk . I find the max hangs feel doable because of their short length, and the Dave MacLeod will tell you long term Max hangs is the way forward. I have not seen any strength improvement from classic 7/3 A small campus rung is around 18/19 mm, as is the "medium edge" on a BM1000, but the beastmaker edge is rounder and considerably harder to hang. Hopefully, I can get it to 170+lbs. fhsrn zkrsu vowqq xqp drdibs uexfkz wolpi epy eooihu pgfioy