How to use atc belay device. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your .

How to use atc belay device. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. 9 to 9mm. Sep 13, 2021 · How does ATC pilot work? Black Diamond built the ATC Pilot as a lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and outdoors. Hook a locking carabiner through both the rope and the wire keeper, and attach it to the belay loop on your harness. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top Uses: - Belaying without a belay device - Abseiling without a belay device - Creating a releasable knot when escaping the belay The munter hitch tends to 'kink' the rope when used for abseiling or belaying. Insurance is a critical skill that every climber must learn from the beginning. Aug 30, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device. Feb 22, 2020 · This device is similar to the ATC XP but with the ability to belay a follower from above directly off an anchor. However, its roots actually date back further than Werner, with Italian climbers, where it was known as the nodo mezzo barcaiolo I second the pilot for an alternate belay device aside from a tube/atc. , Petzl Grigri ) or the geometry of the device (e. Some manufacturers produced figure-8s with a slot instead of a round hole at the small end, and recommended using the slot as a "sticht" style belay plate. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. The ATC, also known as a ‘tuber’ is probably the most common belay device that people use for climbing. How to set up an atc belay device. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant an Jan 24, 2022 · While using an ATC belay device, I was taught "teeth down" when I first got into climbing. It teaches that one particular hand (usually a person's strong hand) will stay on the brake rope at all times. You can read about them in this article I wrote. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and the ATC Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Belay Devices And Descenders Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? May 10, 2025 · Using an ATC guide belay device correctly is crucial for climber safety when bringing up a second. Next How to use atc- guide belay device How to use atc-xp belay device. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. Once you learn to belay and climb a little you’ll feel much safer and more confident in what you’re doing. If you have any questions leave us a comment and subscribe for more videos to come in the future and as always but ALTERNATE METHODS 2 ATC Method Attach the release sling to your harness as is demonstrated in method 3, but instead of using an autoblock, use another ATC on your harness. We can use either single rope or two-strand rope (either half rope or twin). Then, clip the rope through the carabiner, and lock it. 7-10. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Sep 15, 2021 · Hey folks! I'm looking for some insights here on a new policy that has been put in place at a wall I work at. Simple device = simple mechanics. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. What is an ATC Guide Belay Device and How Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. Belay Device Advice (haha) Hi, I don't know much about climbing so I apologize. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. A device used by belayers to pull a lifeline through as a climber climbs, and to stop it from moving when a climber falls. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. Clip the ATC into the carabiner, then clip the carabiner into the belay loop of your harness. (And the little pics Aug 6, 2021 · Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones. An ATC Guide or a Reverso is known as a "plaquette" device and will typically self-lock under the load of the falling climber. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. Mar 10, 2025 · Attach the rope and belay device to your harness. There are tons of belay devices on the market, and they are all good! The two most conventional and widely used belay devices are the ATC and the GriGri. Lock the carabiner securely. The oval-ized anchor-ho Jul 29, 2019 · “What belay device is that?” was the question that popped up from my friend @sammyspindel on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper… How to belay from above Learn how to belay a follower from above on a trad climb or multi-pitch sport route. How to tie-off a belay device. 95) is their most versatile belay and rappel device. Only staff members are allowed to use an assistive braking device. What are the different belay devices out there? This article shares three types of belay devices and describes their functions and benefits. Here’s a review from an REI expert. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Examples of these include tubular devices such as the Black Diamond ATC, or the Petzl Reverso. Guide mode is great, but here in the UK especially, we do love to use the rope to build a belay and most instructions for guide mode show sling or cordlette setups. At Sportrock we will first test you on an ATC to make sure you are a capable belayer. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. 5 mm range. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. How to Use the ATC Belay Device While Rock Climbing. I hope this post isn't too redundant. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger… Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. Dec 6, 2016 · Product Description The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Videos you watch may be added to the TV's watch history and influence TV recommendations. Mar 7, 2019 · An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. ) The May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your According to my research, the best rappelling devices for canyoneering include: SQWUREL 2 Canyonwerks CRITR 2 Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Belay/Rappel Device Figure 8/ATC Those are five strong candidates that will get you down any rappel that you need. Traditional belay devices use friction to assist you in managing the weight of your climber when you need to catch a fall. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test. VN provides comprehensive guidance on belaying techniques, ensuring climbers understand the proper use and potential risks. The end of the rope that you will pull on to belay should have a stopper knot. Oct 13, 2002 · It was designed and intended as a rappel device. Some popular alternatives include the GriGri Dec 22, 2022 · Discover the side-by-side comparison of the GriGri vs ATC belaying devices: history, pros and cons, best use. What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. It is a useful skill to know, but is not intended for long-term use. This helps the belayer prevent fatigue while holding a climber hanging for the 37th time on their project Learn to set up and use the ATC Belay/Rappel Device from Xinda. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi The ATC-Guide Climbing Belay Rappel Device by Black Diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest heights. A third device might be picked up years later as an upgrade Nov 7, 2020 · Learn to set up and use the ATC Belay/Rappel Device from Xinda. How to use atc-guide belay device. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Aug 22, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. So learn to use a basic tube-style device, and you’ll be able to adapt to any other type or brand within a few minutes of practice. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. And that any climber would prefer a competent belayer rather than a fancy belay device. 7 mm to 11 mm. An Italian hitch Jul 15, 2010 · When I belay I usually use a grigri but I also have an ATC. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. This device is rated for use with 8. Part of the series: Rock Climbing. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. Types of belay devices: Your belay Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. Learn how here. Aug 21, 2021 · What does ATC stand for belay device? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. Learn about its features, capabilities, and limitations. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. If they are lowing too fast, go futher into a lock off position, if they're lowering too slow, go furthere away from a lock off position. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Jul 22, 2025 · The ATC belay device is a mechanical device that is used to control a rope’s tension. Apr 22, 2020 · How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 32K subscribers Subscribed ATC Setup for a Rappel With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. What Is an Assisted Locking Belay Device An assisted locking belay device is a tool that climbers use to keep climbers safe and control the speed of the rope going through the device. 1. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. Compared to an ATC, assisted locking belay devices also prevent accidental falls if the belayer isn’t paying attention when a climber falls by locking the rope into place and preventing it from moving through The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device. Dec 22, 2023 · Before early climbers began using purpose-built belay devices, they learned to use the Munter hitch to give belays, catch falls, rappel, and lower climbers. How to belay with atc guide. Here are our in-depth reviews. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:) Feb 21, 2020 · The Mammut Smart 2. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. Assisted braking devices like the GriGri are designed to clamp down on the rope to help the belayer arrest a fall, which can add a layer of security but some argue that the device can make the An ATC belay device is a metal device designed to assist in belaying climbers. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. It has multiple friction modes to let you determine your needs when belaying different climbers. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. This is often the first step in an emergency situation or . g. If you have a horizontally oriented belay loop, make sure the rope is oriented so that the tail end is in your dominant hand. 5mm ropes, and Mammut recommends using their Smart HMS carabiner with this device (it has a safety Feb 12, 2018 · Belay device – I’ve been to gyms where you test belaying on your own ATC device or use the devices set on the climbing gym ropes (usually a grigri, which is an assisted braking device). Extending your belay device before abseiling can be useful in certain situations. The compact, lightweight Verso could also be useful to experienced climbers that like to belay with an active assisted locking device but still need something small and light for the occasional two-strand rappel. The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. The Sticht Plate was one. 0 is a “ passive ” assisted belay device. This way, whenever I’m working with both the device and rope at the same time, the device is attached to something. Understand and follow your rope’s intended use. How does an atc belay device work. Sep 30, 2016 · During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top Feb 21, 2020 · The Verso and other tube-style devices are ideal for beginning climbers learning the basics of belaying. A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. Take a loop of rope, (a bight of rope) and stuff it through the right hand slot of the ATC. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. It costs very little and last a long time. CONDUCT. Advantages - You can use a prusik with less chance of it getting sucked into your belay device. However, there are two exceptions to mention. The main difference is Sep 14, 2020 · – Best Beginner Tube Style Belay Device – Black Diamond ATC Guide – Cheapest Beginner Belay Device Set – Black Diamond ATC XP Package Why Get A Beginner Belay Device? As you learn climbing it will initially feel very unsafe. The original Black Diamond “ATC” shares its name with an acronym that more commonly stands for “Air Traffic Controller. May 10, 2025 · Using an ATC guide belay device correctly is crucial for climber safety when bringing up a second. Because most climbers use the ATC as a belay device and almost everyone has one, it frequently ends up being used as a rappel device when rappelling Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Is this safe? Just having trouble finding anything online about it. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. It is used in climbing, caving, rappelling, and other activities where the rope may be under heavy tension. They are made out of aluminum. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. ” (This was a joke on the part of Black Diamond, given that the ATC’s primary use is to belay or “control” a climber high in the air on a rope, or allow a climber to control their descent. They have a high-friction mode (HFM) and a regular-friction mode (RFM), giving one the ability to select the appropriate level of friction for the specific belay or rappel situation. But how do you rappel with an ATC? Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. That means that there are no moving parts inside the Smart that cam or pinch the rope to slow it down. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. A friend let me use it on a couple of gym days and it was really intuitive and a nice belay device. How to Rappel with a Figure 8 Device: Set the rope through the anchors, and check that anchors and harness are secure, with the carabiner This user manual provides instructions and warnings for using the Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. The ATC Pilot does this by simply pinching the rope between your belay ‘biner and the device when the rope is weighted, whereas some other devices, like the Petzl GRIGRI, use camming mechanisms to grab the rope. Jun 4, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. This video teaches you how to attach your rope to your belay device and harness. It works by managing the rope's friction, allowing the belayer to control the rope's payout and catch falls effectively. How to Belay Using a ATC | Black Diamond Youth Odyssey 97 subscribers Subscribed Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. With this set up, you can quickly put the belay end of the rope into the ATC on your harness when the climber gets to the top, then put your weight on the sling to fully release the autolocker and then simply lower the Jan 10, 2018 · Best ATC belay devices These are our picks, in order, for the best ATC belay devices available. In my experience, its never been to difficult to release under load either. When using two-strand rope each strand is pulled through its own longitudinal opening in the body belay device. Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing down. Assisted-braking belay devices either use moving parts (e. Keep reading to learn how to use a rappel device when rappelling. An ATC belay device. My favorite belay device I've ever used was an old sticht plate. EDU. Oct 12, 2022 · To reverse the procedure, I move the locker from the rope to the guide clip and then just pull on the rope. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. But with this Crafty Rope Trick, it's no problemo - all you need is some LSD. The manufacturers who supplied printed instructions for their products actually warned against using the figure-8 as a belay. Seneca Rocks Climbing School guide Adam Happensack demonstrates how to properly load an ATC for rappel to reduce the odds of dropping the device. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable If you’re still using an 8 ring for rappelling though, you’re missing out on the latest developments in safety and convenience that come from canyoneering-specific devices like the Hoodoo and Critr. Jun 21, 2023 · How you do this depends on the device. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. The belayer is not attached directly to the belay device. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may… Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. - You can transition from abseiling to ascending easily – useful if you abseil too far on a multi-pitch descent One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. 5mm. more Nov 6, 2022 · Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. Instead, the rotation of the device against your carabiner is what creates the pinch. While there have been a few tweaks and improvements over the past 30 years since its development, the basic idea has remained unchanged. Tube devices are superior to plates for rappelling since they allow precise control of your descent speed. Nov 17, 2023 · The ATC is a line of tubular belay devices produced by Black Diamond. If you are using a Grigri instead of an ATC, the setup concept is similar Feb 12, 2024 · A vast majority of belay devices double as rappel devices – the terms belaying device and rappel device are often used interchangeably - but you need to know how to properly use them in order to rappel safely. Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Learn what rock climbing belay devices like the figure-eight and ATC type, and other equipment and gear you need to control rope feed and get started climbing rocks in these free rock and mountain Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. Explore additional safety measures and advanced belaying practices to enhance your climbing skills and knowledge. Przyrząd do Asekuracji Black Diamond Atc-Guide Belay Device - Black, Kolor Jun 28, 2018 · Belay Device: Lastly, you are going to need a belay device. If playback doesn't begin shortly, try restarting your device. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. It is an essential device for climbing safety. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. The belay device, which is a mechanism that helps the belayer ‘catch’ the climber by creating more friction on the rope or locking it in place with a braking device. ” Every tube-like belay device produced after the ATC by other brands was also called an ATC, just like every tissue paper is called Kleenex by most people. This is a video tutorial on how to tie off a non-locking tubular belay device. As of today, ALL participants, regardless of their climbing experience, personal gear, or belay (top or lead) are required to use an ATC. Black Diamond ATC Guide The Black Diamond ATC Guide (MSRP: $29. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Sep 18, 2023 · Safety considerations when using an ATC include regular inspections to ensure the device is in proper working condition, correct handling and storage to prevent wear and tear, and understanding the limitations and proper usage of the specific ATC being used. To use the ATC belay device, or any belay device, you'll want to be s How to use and safely belay using an Air Traffic Controller (ATC). Dec 13, 2023 · Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. Jan 16, 2019 · Belaying directly from the anchor with a plaquette style belay device like an ATC Guide has one significant drawback - it's difficult to lower your second if you need to. As with anything, they each have their advantages and disadvantages, and a lot of the distinction between them is going to come down to personal Jan 24, 2024 · Atc Belay Device How To Use? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. Weighing in at 2. In the late 1980s, Petzl If your blocking carabiner is fat and round the rope will pull easier. It can also cause slight abrasion to the rope's sheath, especially if the leader falls. The Norwand’s guide-mode clip keeps the device oriented exactly how you use it for belaying and rappelling. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. Then you will secure the rope and the device together and to your harness using a locking carabiner. Dec 11, 2016 · PLUS is the most error-free top rope belaying technique. Take a belay class from a climbing instructor anywhere in the world. The most versatile belay/rappel Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. How to choose? Universal technique for correct use of a belay device. Method #1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay In the direct belay method, the belay device is secured directly on the belay anchor. This is the recommended method by many climbing schools today. How To Use Atc-Xp Belay Device At Rhonda William Blog Zestaw ASD Plus System ochrony przed śniegiem przeznaczony do wspinaczki górskiej, jazdy na nartach i przejeżdżania przez lodowce. What is an ATC Guide Belay Device and How Mar 16, 2022 · But nearly every belay device uses the same general principles to function and operate correctly. , Ocún Bow) to apply braking force to a rope. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. . Today, we understand the Munter hitch was popularized and named after Swiss mountain guide Werner Munter. That is the standard system, needing two people, specialist climbing equipment and the knowledge of how to use it. All Petzl belay devices, and those of many other brands, are designed to be used with the same hand placements on the rope and the same basic belay technique. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. Is there any benefit to using a figure 8 as opposed to tubular belay devices or a locking assist belay device? Thanks Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. I tend to agree. The ATC-Pilot is a single-rope, geometry-assisted belay device with enhanced braking, designed specifically for belaying during climbing and mountaineering. Jul 27, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. 1 and 8. This minimizes the risk of The angle you hold the rope at directly corresponds to how much friction is caused by the device (hence why people belay double rope when there will be large angles between the protection). I don’t care what my belayer is using so long as they are going to catch me if I fall. This post is going to cover one of the most basic pieces of equipment, the rappel device. Jan 3, 2024 · GriGri vs ATC Belay Device: What’s The Difference? What is an ATC? The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. A toothless tube option is available, too, as the classic Black Diamond ATC. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Atc’s are probably preferred by the old guard. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. - Your prusik will be centred, making it easier to use than if you attach it to a leg loop. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. This post will walk you through what a rappel device is, how to use one, and some of the most common types of belay and rappel devices. You can typically find specific instructions when you purchase one or online. Dec 11, 2016 · A basic top roping skill. While ATCs are widely used in climbing, there are also alternative belay devices available. I am hoping to get a Christmas present for my boyfriend - he needs an ATC belay device? When I google it, I just see the simple belay device where the belayer holds on to the rope and use tension to keep the climber in place. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Jul 3, 2025 · Unlike traditional tube-style devices, assisted-braking belay devices actually help the belayer hold a falling or hanging climber. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device Jul 8, 2021 · ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. 7 to 10. The ATC-XP and ATC-Sport are variable friction belay/rappel devices designed specifically for belaying and rappelling during climbing and mountaineering. Nov 22, 2021 · How does an ATC belay device work? A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. When belaying, you can tie-off your belay device. However, after a few falls I became more anxious and no longer wanted my belayer to use an unassisted belay device in case he/she fainted Belay device, a full history Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques Belay device, belaying device, belay, belay plate, Sticht plate, stitch plate, ATC, ABD A very basic ATC belay device, and an auto-locking GriGri. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. The durable steel braking surface has no moving parts, and the smooth and secure control May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. How to pass a belay certification? Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. However, I am looking to get Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. The other day, I was top rope climbing indoors and there was so much tension while my partner and I were lowering each other that he flipped his ATC the other way ("teeth up") to make the lowering process smoother. High-quality accessories for the Rock Climbing Enthusiast. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. Chris Taljaard, Unsplash Jul 13, 2018 · What it is From Black Diamond: The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. saziz nphgqx vvcr suxxz qnsve kbdil bcu paheb nxpoi luyakn